HAFS Goblin - Chapter 2 - Goblin Build Diary

Article Index
HAFS Goblin
Chapter 1 - Goblin Build Diary
Chapter 2 - Goblin Build Diary
Chapter 3 - Goblin Build Diary
All Pages



Decals and Markings

Decals and markings have been applied. Kow seems to have established Blue as the id band color of choice for Mercs. (Orange/yellow-orange has been standardized for SDR equipment) The exact blue varies a bit, especially on the decal sheets so it is difficult to match things up from different releases.

I airbrushed a custom mix of Sky Blue, Medium Blue and Clear Blue Tamiya Acrylics for the base color. I then went back and shaded the sides and undersides of the missile pods with a mix of Medium Blue and Clear Blue to match some of the shading on the green. The blue “K” on the nose is airbrushed with a stencil cut from low tack frisket. Right now it does not have enough contrast with the green but once the white wash is applied, I think this blue will pop better, but it may need some touch ups. The white “K” on the side is a dry transfer over the ID band.

The other markings are from miscellaneous decal sheets. The nose art egg is from the Hasegawa Figure set. I’m not entirely sure why it was included for the Falke as this nose art has been previously used for SAFS. It felt more suitable for the Goblin than a flying machine. I didn’t go crazy with the decals since most will be covered by the white wash effect, but I did want some markings to peek through when the white wash is worn off.

The model has been top coated with Polly Scale Clear Satin.




The model was first sprayed with two coats of TRESemme Ultra Fine Mist Hair Spray from an aerosol can. After these two coats had dried for a little bit, I airbrushed very thin Tamiya Flat White mixed with a drop of Medium Gray. The coat was very mottled; trying to replicate a hasty field applied white wash. I went heavy in some areas, lighter in others and skipped the underside altogether. I then airbrushed thinned Tamiya Flat White on the upper surfaces on a few areas for highlights. I don't know how effective this was.

When the paint had dried to the touch, I started working at the white paint with an old paint brush dipped in water. As the water soaks through the paint it softens the hairspray and the paint lifts right off with it. It's a very realistic looking technique. Most of the green color modulation was lost with the white, but you can still see the effect in some areas like the engine deck.


Further White Wash Effects

The worn white wash looked pretty good, but it needed some pop. I "mapped" thin white paint over the airbrushed Tamiya to add some opacity variations to the white. For the first stage of mapping I used Vallejo Panzer Aces Stencil, a white with just a hint of warm gray. I mixed the paint with Vallejo #597 Slow Dry and Tamiya Flat Base and thinned with water. The Slow Dry allowed a greater working time in the pallet and also allowed enough time for a little blending on the surface of the model and the Tamiya Flat Base eliminated any of the sheen Vallejo has when dry. Over this, I mapped an additional layer of Vallejo Flat White mixed with Slow Dry and Flat Base and thinned with water. This white was applied to the upper surfaces like the hatch and tops of the missile pods to help add some additional depth to the finish.


After the acrylic had dried overnight, I applied washes, filters, and straight oil paints to accent the panel lines, add some shading and color variations. I first used SIN Filters Grey for Dark Yellow and Grey for Bright Green. Both of these hep to tone down the contrast slightly. Unfortunately, they also attacked the knee joint on the right leg and split the plastic. The Jerry kit has a known problem of the knee joint cracking and this particular model had this same spot fixed twice before. I had to glue the crack, fill the gap and re paint the area. Strong solvents can attack some manufacturers injection molded plastic and MIG/SIN products use a solvent a little stronger than the Turpenoid I normally use as a thinner for oil paints.

So, I fixed the crack and then proceeded with additional weathering. I created a thin wash with 502 Abt. Shadow Brown mixed with Turpoenoid and accented the panel lines. MIG Dark Wash was used around some of the moving mechanical bits to represent oil/grease/dirt buildup.

To add some color variations, I selectively applied SIN Filter Blue for Panzer Grey to a couple of the panels. As a final step, I used Windsor and Newton oil paints straight from the tube around the feet, leg details and upper portions of the torso to add some dimensionality and further interest to the white.

This will probably the last step on the Goblin for a while. I need to focus on the vignette and figure.