SAFSR Rapoon

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The SAFSR MkIII Rapoon is an unarmed Reconnaissance variant of the more familiar Raptor.

The Rapoon was built from a Nitto/Wave Raptor and Raccoon parts from the spares bin. A more thorough construction and finishing article can be found here Rapoon Build Diary.



Below if the build Diary for the Rapoon.



The Rapoon is essentially a combination of the Raptor and Raccoon. Hense Rapoon. I have seen a couple of different variations from Kow.


Raptor Torso
Raptor/MkIII hatch
Raptor/MkIII  laser arm
Raccoon Nose Sensor
Raccoon Top Sensor


Raptor Torso
Raccoon/Mk I hatch
Raptor/MkIII  manipulator
Raccoon Nose Sensor
Raccoon Top Sensor
Raccoon Engine Silencer

Kit Build

This build represents one of the an unarmed Rapoon. The base kit is a Wave Raptor kit with parts from the Nitto Raccoon and bits from the spares box. The fingers were replaced on the kit hands with fingers from a BClub 1/100 Manipulator replacement set for a Bandai Master Grade kit.  The BClub palm was too large, but the fingers are an acceptable replacement.


The solder wire joint armatures were first covered with a ball of Milliput epoxy putty. When this cured, it acted as the “muscle mass” that figure sculptors use to block out volume for sculpting clothing. Is this case it was used to block out the volume for the covered joint mechanics. This required two steps but made the final sculpting much easier. The flexible covers are made with Duro Green Stuff and sculpted with a pointed chisel silicone sculpting tool kept lubricated with petroleum jelly. This was my first time using Green Stuff and the silicone sculpting tools for this type of sculpting. I am very pleased with how well these two worked together. The texture was created with Mr Surfacer 500 jabbed on with an old brush.



Kit Paint

Or how to slop paint all over a model. The inspiration for the camo scheme came from the SnakeEye Mook. There is a Gray/Green SE with Blue Gray ID bands. I thought this would look good for the Rapoon. After the initial paint application of Vallejo, Light Gray, German Field Grey Highlight and Russian Tanker Blue Highlight it didn't. So I have been reworking the gray with first Iraqi Sand, but this was still too light so now it's migrating to a Light Brown. The green has now migrated to some mutt like more yellowish green mixture. Both colors use Sunny Skintone mixed for highlights with a little bit of yellow thrown in for the lightest highlights. The blue is now brighter and lighter than the initial camo scheme. Some areas don't have paint yet so you can see the preshade of black/brown paint over the primer. I realize it all looks like a big fat mess right now, but later I'll turn it into a big fat mess with weathering.



More paint

More paint and the start of the wrecked “Neuspotter”. Continuing to use Vallejo, I have tightened up the camo and filled in the missing pieces. Some areas are still just bare primer and will need to be corrected. The “muffler” or silencer was painted with torn pieces of sponge using Vallejo Panzer Aces Dark, Standard, and Yellow Rust. The sponge was dipped in the paint, dabbed on a paper towel to remove most of the paint and then dabbed in alternating layers on the muffler. Filters and pigments will round it out.

I had some success with the sculpted gear for the Kestrel; so I wanted to try my hand at similar gear for the Rapoon. I had a spare Raptor torso and misc. armor plates in the spares bin to use as place holders for sculpting since I did not want to sculpt right on the painted model. I use Miliput Standard Yellow epoxy putty. The Miliput works well for sculpting bags in this manner since it is more firm than Aves Apoxie Sculp. The bed roll and two packs are the result of two different sessions. I still plan on a couple more items.

The wrecked “Neuspotter” is scratch built with bits and bobs from the spares bin. I used a fishing float and a piece of brass tube for the main body and the details are a mix and match of aircraft wheels, road wheels, and mechanical bits. The mechanics represent redundant data collectors with cooling fans and a boat load of wires which will extend through the stalk. The brass tube was attacked with a Dremel, wire cutters, and an X-acto knife.

I’m still trying to decide on a base, but think an urban setting might suit what I’m after.